By Ron Schmidt

Maintenance 101 for BMW K1200RS/ GT/ LT
Model years 1997 to 2004

BMW’s K Bike Background

In 1984 BMW released the K100, 90 HP series motorcycles, setting the technology standards for that time and for decades thereafter. They were the first mass produced motorcycles with electronic fuel injection, liquid cooled marvels that won almost every motorcycle publication’s award for Motorcycle of the Year throughout the world. In 1988 BMW released the K100RS ABS Special, the first mass produced motorcycle with ABS available. Also in 1988 they released the K1, a 1000cc model that incorporated much of the technology first penned by BMW engineers in the 1970’s on the BMW Futuro, a concept vehicle that was never put into production. Changes for the spectacular K1 included a four valves per cylinder head (4V), updated electronic engine management systems, and the first Paralever rear suspension system.

As the years went by, BMW increased the displacement of the 4V engine to 1100cc, then to 1200cc. Power was upped to a maximum of 130 HP on the K1200RS and GT models. The K1200LT was introduced as BMW’s answer to the Luxury Touring question and has been consistently rated amongst the top of the Luxury market ever since it’s release.

With all the technology, BMW lost its old claim to easy owner performed maintenance. When the valve system changed to 4V it became a “bucket under cam” system that actually requires the camshafts to be removed to adjust the valves. The fuel system became non-adjustable. On an LT, it takes a good mechanic using power tools over 90 minutes just to change an air filter! With the advent of the IABS system, the annual brake fluid flushes have become nearly impossible for the home mechanic with just basic tools and ability to accomplish. So, these bikes are largely professionally maintained, or due to the high labor costs of BMW’s suggested maintenance, just not maintained at all.

On the plus side, the bikes also have become so automotive that they run well between services. Like most modern automobiles, much of the required maintenance, if ignored, only causes problems after a very long service life. The repair costs from lack of maintenance can be hideous, but are often only observed by subsequent owners.

As a result, and in view of the time limitations of this seminar, we will only be covering a basic engine oil change and items we suggest you take care of as a daily inspection prior to operating your K1200.

Oil Change Procedure

Parts needed for this procedure:
4) Quarts BMW engine oil (15W50 Synthetic if the engine has over 6000 miles on it)
1) BMW oil filter kit Part number 11 00 2 300 053

Tools needed for this procedure:
1) BMW Oil filter wrench
1) 8mm hex socket
1) 5mm hex socket
1) Torque wrench accurate from 10NM to 35NM.
1) Drain pan, 5 quarts minimum size
1) Box of shop rags (for cleaning up the mess)
1) First aid kit. (Please review “legal disclaimer” below.)

Guidelines:
● Legal Disclaimer: Bavarian Motorcycle Workshop, is not responsible for any damage you cause to your motorcycle, injury to yourself or others in the nearby vicinity, property damage, wrath of significant others, devaluation of the US dollar, global warming, or anything else. You are holding the wrench; you are responsible for the outcome.
● Engine oil needs to be changed when it is hot. The heat-thinned oil will flow faster, therefore flushing the sediments from the crankcase better. Be careful not to burn yourself with the hot oil or exhaust or engine parts near where you are working. Please review “legal disclaimer” above.
● Used engine oil is carcinogenic. And yucky. Please wear rubber gloves. Please review “legal disclaimer” above.
● Cleanliness is next to Godliness, or so I have been told. It is also next to impossible when changing oil, but make sure there is no dirt in the areas around the filler or drain plugs, the oil filter, or cover for the oil filter on the K engine. We want only clean oil going into the engine! Please review “legal disclaimer” above.

Specific Instructions:
1) Park the warmed motorcycle on its centerstand in an area where you can work around it.
Make sure it is stable because you will be tugging on it some.
2) Turn the motorcycle off!
3) Put an oil drain pan that can hold at least 5 quarts under the engine.
4) Remove the engine oil filler plug, located on the right engine cover.
4) Use an 8mm Allen wrench and remove the engine drain plug. The oil will come out very quickly,
so be careful not to let the splashing oil burn you. Let it drain for at least 5 minutes.
5) There is a round cover over the oil filter. It is about 100 mm in diameter with 3 bolts that use a 5mm
Allen wrench. Take the bolts out, the cover will then fall into the hot oil you just drained out, splash and
make a mess. Or, you can take the last of the three bolts out carefully as you hold the cover and keep
it from dropping into the oil. A few cc’s of oil will come out when you remove the cover. Remove the oil
filter, using the oil filter wrench, by turning it anti-clockwise. Inspect the oil filter at the surface that
goes up against the engine. There should be a large rubber seal in it. If not, that seal is stuck to the
engine and you will have to fish it out. Make sure the gasket area is clean.
6) Look at the drained oil. It is ok if it is dark, even blackish as that is what the detergents in it are
supposed to make it look like. If there are large amounts of metal particles in it, please call us.
We would LOVE to hear from you! Some small amount of metallic shiny stuff is normal though.
7) Fill the new oil filter with new oil. It will fill very slowly. Wipe the large rubber seal on the filter
with engine oil. Screw the filter onto its stub pipe. Torque it to 11NM (or 8 foot pounds if you are
using a wrench for a Chevrolet). Put the round oil filter cover back on with a new o-ring and
torque the bolts to 10NM (7.2 foot pounds).
8 ) Remove the old crush gasket from the drain plug and put a new one on it. Screw the plug back
in, torque it to 30NM (21.6 foot pounds).
9) Pour the rest of the 4 quarts of oil into the filler hole. Put the filler cap back in.
10) Start the engine. Watch the oil pressure light. It should go off after 2 or 3 seconds. Run the
engine for 2 minutes in a well ventilated area (please review “legal disclaimer” above), then look
for oil leaks around the oil filter or the drain plug. If leaks exist, repair as needed.
11) Find a way to bottle up the old oil and the old filter, and then try to find some place to take it to
that will recycle it properly. Do your best not to make a mess of the trunk of your wife’s car when
transporting the old oil and filter to the recycle area. Wash out the drain pan so your cat does not
lick it and die. (Optional)
12) Ask yourself if this effort was worth saving the measly $18.00 that we charge for labor to do this
work. We even include a brake, tire, and light inspection and a professional test ride for that price.

Pre-flight Checks

Preface — This part of this seminar discusses only items that should be looked at before every ride. These items DO NOT replace the normal preventative maintenance suggested by the manufacturer of your specific motorcycle!! Refer to your Motorcycle Owners Manual (MOM) for preventative maintenance schedules!!

Because this is written to be a generic list usable for all brands of motorcycles, some of these items or steps may not apply to your specific motorcycle. With practice, this entire preflight check should take less than 5 minutes to complete and could save your life!

Although we call these Pre-flight checks, only the tire pressure needs to be done in the few hours or so before you start out on the ride. All the rest of these checks would really be best done after each ride so you have time to repair anything that is not right before your next ride!

Tire Pressure

Condition of Tires & Wheels

Tire pressure should be checked cold with a high quality tire pressure gauge. Follow the recommended tire pressure chart in your MOM [owner’s manual]. Under-inflated tires are the most common cause of tire failure and rapid wear, and will cause the motorcycle to handle badly.

Put the bike on the center stand and look at the tires for cuts, punctures, bulges, and cracks. Look also at the wear bars to see how far down the tread is worn. Make sure the tires have enough tread depth to complete your intended ride without getting down to the tread wear indicators (TWI). Look all the way around each tire as they seldom reach the TWI’s at the same time. If you don’t rotate the tire and look at all of it, you might only be looking at the part of the tire with the most tread left on it! If your tires do not have TWI’s, below 2mm is unsafe.

Look at the wheels for dings, loose spokes, cracks, or any other damage. Look also at the valve stem and make sure it has a valve stem cap on it. You should notice this when you check the air pressure. We suggest looking at the tires at the end of a ride so that if you do have a nail or cut you can get the tire replaced or repaired before the next ride. It is a real drag to go out to the garage to start a ride on a Sunday morning and find you have a flat and none of the shops are open to fix it!

Lights and signals

Check to make sure all the items below are working properly:
◊ Headlight high and low beam
◊ Turn Signals – front & rear
◊ Taillight
◊ Brake light (check that it works with both the front and rear brakes)
◊ Horn(s)
◊ Dash warning lights (for oil pressure, charging system, hi beam indicator etc.)

Brakes

Check brake pad/shoe wear as outlined by your MOM. If you have a drum brake, check adjustment and adjust as needed. Again, check your MOM for proper adjustment procedure.

Check brake fluid levels as outlined by your MOM.

Mechanical & Fluid Checks

Check for leaks. Look at or near anything on the bike that has a fluid in it! This can include engine, transmission, driveshaft, rear drive units, radiators (oil & coolant), brake hydraulic components, batteries and fuel tanks. On BMW motorcycles, there should be no leakage anywhere. Check with your MOM and/or repair facility if any leaks exist.

Check controls for operation. Do the brake lever and brake pedal operation feel firm when operated? Is the throttle easy and smooth to turn? Does the clutch feel correct? If anything feels wrong, attend to it as needed.

Check the steering. Does the handle bar move from left to right freely? Is there any stickiness or rubbing when your turn the bar? If there is excess tightness or looseness, or binding, you may want to have it professionally checked.

Zen & Mental Awareness

Since we recommend making the pre-ride checks after the last ride was completed, with the exception of the tire pressure check, there are two times you get to apply some Zen and Motorcycle Maintenance. The first is before you start the ride. Get your mind in the right attitude. Remember, you are invisible to most motorist, so focus on being seen and seeing all around you. Think safety. Don’t take chances. Dress correctly, for both the weather and for the possible impact.

The second application of mental awareness of the ride is when you are done. Think over the ride you just completed. Did anything on the bike feel odd or not operate as it normally does? As the regular operator of the motorcycle you will develop a “feel” for your motorcycle. The bike may be telling you that things are not right just by the way it feels. Make a note to investigate any abnormalities before your next ride.